Rolex Submariner Review
By: John B. Holbrook, II
May 10, 2004

The Rolex Submariner reference 16613 serves three purposes in my collection. The first is to complete my collection of the best of the Rolex sport watches. This F series Submariner joins my Y series Explorer II and GMT Master II to represent the 3 Rolex watches I admire the most. The second purpose is to have an example of the vaunted Submariner in my collection. As I've been saying for years, the Submariner has it's pluses and minuses, but you simply can't take away the tremendous horilogical impact of the Rolex Submariner. As a collector, I wanted to add one to my collection. The third, and perhaps most important reason is that I happen to love the look of this watch.

Not everyone likes the look of gold. All gold watches, especially with gold bracelets can be a bit much. But this watch to my eye brings the rich look of gold and still remains tasteful while doing so. The blue dial combined with the silver of the stainless steel, and the polished 18k gold components is absolutely gorgeous. It is perhaps the most beautiful watch I've ever seen. Here's a picture of the amazing blue dial:

The markers and hands are 18k gold, and the background of the date window is off white to more closely coordinate with the gold accents. The sharp eyed in the audience will notice one of the more difficult to counterfeit hallmarks of authenticity on a Rolex watch - the laser etched crown on the sapphire crystal at 6 o'clock, visible between the words "Swiss" and "Made".

While this is certainly a pretty watch, you can dive with it if you choose to do so in a watch that retails for nearly $7000.00. The 16613, like the 16610 is water resistant to 300 meters, and has a uni-directional rotating bezel. It also has a dive suit extension built into the clasp. Here's a view of something I've always found visually appealing about the Submariner - the oversized Rolex Triplock crown:

Like the bezel, the crown of the 16613 Submariner is 18 carat gold.

Prior to the introduction of the 50th Anniversary LV Submariner last year, the 16613 had the distinction of being the newest Rolex model to bear the Submariner name - it first debuted in 1983. But, only in the last 5 years has Rolex truly perfected the 16613 into the ultimate two-tone sport watch. A layered gold strip was added to the clasp (NOT gold plating) to give it a more integrated look with the rest of the bracelet around 2000. Unlike traditional gold plating, Rolex actually fuses a thin strip of solid gold onto the stainless steel clasp. Additionally, in late 1999 to early 2000 Rolex added upgraded SuperLuminova in the markers and hands (for better low-light visibility) and solid end links to the bracelet. Here's a shot of the watch from the rear, which shows the gorgeous bracelet clasp. Also note the solid end links and the ends of both sides of the bracelet which meet the watch case:

Of course, it wouldn't be a Submariner without some faults - opening the clasp reveals the same thin, stamped steel pieces which will forever in my mind be woefully out of place.

Another great reason to own a Submariner of any reference is the caliber 3135. The 31 jewel caliber 3135 in the Submariner has been in service since 1989. In those 16 years of services, the 3135 has garnered a reputation as being one of the most reliable, and robust movements ever created. The movement has been criticized at times for lacking refinement and technological sophistication. I would argue that it was designed from the beginning as a movement to be encased in a stainless steel Oyster case, and endure rigorous conditions and treacherous environments. It's a clear case of function over form. I would also argue that the 3135 isn't lacking in technological sophistication - Rolex Research and Development is second to none. Rolex has implemented several, truly notable features into the 3135, such as a Breguet overcoil balance-spring, and the Microstella adjustment screws, and Kif shock absorption. In short, it's hard to criticize Rolex for setting the benchmark which other manufactures strive to attain. The 3135 in the Submariner is of course COSC certified. The 3135 is a high beat movement, and has a vibration speed of 28,800 vibrations per hour (VPH).

Rolex certainly isn't the greatest brand ever, nor is the Submariner the greatest watch. But the appeal of both the brand and it's most famous model cannot be denied. Nor can be denied the unique pleasure of slipping on a gold watch. While I never thought I'd be fortunate enough to own one Rolex, let alone three, I find myself in that very position. Thanks go out to the Internet watch community that has taught me so much about watches and helped me launch a 2nd career writing about, and photographing watches.